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How to: Convert 10 speed freehub to 11 speed

Are you looking to convert your wheels to 11 speed? You have a few options if you're looking to convert your wheels to eleven speed. 

  • Trade in your current set of Boyd wheels and receive a special offer to use towards a new Boyd wheelset.
    https://boydcycling.com/trade
  • Refurbish your wheels with new spokes and the latest Boyd hubs, ask us for a custom quote.
  • Run a Shimano HG-800 11-34t cassette on a ten speed freehub body, as long as you have a medium cage rear derailleur.

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Due to availability we no longer offer 11 speed conversion kits. But, here is all you need to know to convert your Boyd Cycling wheels to use an 11 speed cassette. The process is very simple.

First of all, let's get into the 11 speed differences. There is an extra gear on the rear cassette (obviously), but to accomplish this the cassettes got wider by 2.8mm. With a Shimano 10 speed cassette there was a 1mm spacer that you needed to place behind the cassette. So, if you are running a Shimano 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed hub, you will need the 1mm spacer provided with the Shimano 10 speed cassette PLUS a 1.8mm spacer to make up for the added width of the 11 speed freehub body.

If you are running a Sram 10 speed cassette, there is no 1mm spacer needed behind the cassette. You will simply need the 1.8mm spacer on the 11 speed freehub body and the Sram cassette will go over top of that.

In both cases of Sram and Shimano, if you are using an 11 speed cassette on an 11 speed freehub body, the cassette will go on the freehub body with no spacers needed.

Upgrading your 2012 and before wheels to 11 speed:

Note that on the non-drive side of this hub there is just an end cap. There is no adjustment collar!

If you have wheels that use our older model rear hub (like what is shown in the above picture), then to upgrade to 11 speed you will just need a new freehub body. This can be swapped out using just two 5mm allen wrenches and the wheel will not need to be redished afterwards. The new freehub body will come with the 1.8mm spacer so if you are still running a 10 speed cassette then you will be able to use that cassette with the 11 speed freehub body.

Another way to tell. If your rear hub has a freehub body with 6 pawls (like pictured below), then you only need the freehub body.

If you try to use this freehub body on the hub that calls for a 4 pawl freehub, it WILL NOT work!!

Upgrading your 2013 and 2014 model wheels to 11 speed:

If you have wheels that use our 2013 and 2014 model hubs  (like what is shown in the picture above), then to upgrade to 11 speed you will need a conversion kit. The hub that needs a conversion kit has a 22mm cone wrench slot on the non-drive side. If you can fit a 22mm cone wrench on the non-drive side, then you must get a conversion kit to upgrade to 11 speed! The 6 pawl freehub body WILL NOT work in these hubs!

Another way to tell, if your 10 speed hub has four pawls, with a leaf spring under each pawl (like the above picture), then you need the conversion kit.

In order to optimize flange spacing for this newer hub configuration, we have different conversions for 10 or 11 speed. If you originally had a 10 speed to upgrade to 11 speed you will need this conversion kit. It consists of a freehub body, new axle, and end caps. After installing the conversion kit you WILL need to perform a very slight redish of the rear wheel afterwards. There are two options for the installation and redish.

You can install the conversion kit and redish the wheel yourself (or preferably through a local bike shop). We will ship you the conversion kit with everything you need to upgrade your 10 speed wheel to 11 speed.

or

We can perform the installation and redish for you at no charge. You will have to send your wheel to us (we will provide you with an RA number and instructions for sending in the wheel). There will be a $15 return shipping charge for wheels in the domestic USA. For International orders, it's going to be much more convenient to have the installation performed at a local bike shop.

Thank you to Josh Whitmore of the Globalbike Elite cycling team for shooting a video on how to perform the 11 speed conversion. Please note, if you have a wheel dishing tool that is the preferred method for ensuring your wheel is properly redished after converting to 11 speed.

Here is all you need to know about running a 12 speed XDR freehub body on any Boyd wheels with Quest disc brake hubs and 85 Road rim brake hubs.

Sram XDR and Sram XD faq explained with Boyd Quest disc brake hubs.

Q: What do I need to know about converting or building a wheelset with an XDR freehub body? A: The XDR driver is 1.85mm longer than an XD driver, but it occupies the same space as an 11-speed Shimano Hyperglide driver. This means there will be no redishing of the wheel to use the new driver if you're already running an 11 speed wheelset.Q: When will you start selling XDR freehub bodies? A: We expect our first shipment to arrive by early March.Q: Can you run an 11 speed Sram XD cassette on an XDR freehub body? A: Yes, simply use a 1.85mm spacer behind the cassette.Give us a shout if you'd like to learn more about building a set of wheels with this exciting new technology or visit sram.com for more info.https://youtu.be/EhfpRKVwSmY

Altamont Vs Altamont Lite

We put a lot of development into having a complete range of wheels. Our alloy wheels fit a specific purpose and for a rider's needs. The Altamont and Altamont Lite wheels are almost identical. They are the same width, have the same rim, bed, and have the same strength in the rim. The main difference is that the Altamont is 30mm deep whereas the Altamont Lite is 25mm deep. This way the rider can choose if having better aerodynamics (30mm) or shaving a bit of weight (25mm) is a bigger advantage.Q: So which one should you choose? A: It depends on the type of riding you are doing!If you are using the wheels in rides where you are going to be spending a lot of time above 18mph (group ride, flat to rolling terrain) where aerodynamics is a bigger priority then the Altamonts are a great option.If you are doing more climbing rides, touring, gravel or cyclocross situations where the speeds may not be so high and weight is more of a priority then the Altamont Lites are a great option. Both wheels are available in three separate spoke counts, allowing us to make an ideal wheelset for riders at any weight.
You got your new carbon wheels and you want to make sure they last as long as possible. So do we!The good news is that carbon rims can be relatively maintenance free and should last longer than alloy rims! With an alloy rim when you are braking you can slightly wear off pieces of the aluminum. Over the course of years of use, this can make it where the rim becomes concave and thinner on the brake track. Because carbon rims do not shed any material under braking conditions, the rims will last longer.Note that you will want to change out your brake pads once they get to the indicator level. Completely worn out brakes will alloy the metal shoes of the brake caliper to contact the carbon rim, and this will be extremely bad for rim longevity!For cleaning the carbon rims, simply use rubbing alcohol and a rag. Keeping the brake track clean and making sure the brake pads are free of any debris will ensure maximum longevity of the rims.
What type of coating is on the ceramic coated rims?The coating is actually a Plasma Electrolytic Oxidation (PEO) coating. This is an electrochemical process of oxidation that is performed by creating micro-discharges on the surface of components immersed in an electrolyte. The process is applied to Aluminum, Titanium, and Magnesium to grow a dense, ductile nano-ceramic oxide layer that improves mechanical, wear, thermal, dielectric, and corrosion properties.This is a much different coating than the anodization that is used on the sides of almost all alloy rims. The PEO coating is a much harder, and more durable coating, leading to increased longevity in all conditions.Do I need special brake pads for the ceramic coated rim?Yes, we include the Swissstop BXP brake pads which we have tested to work excellent with the ceramic coated rims. The main thing you will want to ensure is that you are not using the brake pads on a regular machined brake track rim as you can pick up slivers of aluminum which will scratch the coating on the brake track.With the increased durability, will the coating wear off?Under many different riding conditions, both wet and dry the coating has not been wearing off. That being said, you are still rotating a wheel between the brake pads. If there is hard material like sand or rocks trapped between the brake pad and the rim this can wear streaks into the ceramic coating.How can I ensure the best longevity from the ceramic coating?The easiest way to ensure longevity is to ensure that your brake pads are free from any debris that can scratch the rim. This is actually a great recommendation for any wheel, not just the ceramic coated. We have seen grooves worn into braking surfaces from debris left in the brake pads for a long time.Riding in the rain can be inevitable. The problem with riding in the rain is that the debris from the road will splash up and coat everything. This is what makes it easy to get into your brake pads and create a point to scratch a rim. Thoroughly inspect your brake pads after every ride in the rain and make sure there is no debris left over. This can easily be done in most cases with a rag and rubbing alcohol (you will need to remove the wheels to do this). More stubborn and embedded debris may need to be picked out of the brake pad.What happens if the coating does wear off?Even if the coating managed to completely wear off from the rim, you can still use the wheel as normal. The ceramic coated rims are the exact same rims as our silver brake track alloy, so it's definitely not a situation where if the coating develops any streaks or wear that the rim is no longer fine to ride. Ride hard and have fun!!Below are some pictures of the PEO coated rims both brand new and after one of our professional test riders has put over 8,000 miles on them in all types of weather conditions.

Brand new rim with the PEO coating

Brand new rim with the PEO coating

With the PEO coating, the holes are plugged and the rim bed is coated

Below are photos of how the coating looks after 8,000 miles of riding in all different types of terrain and weather conditions.As you can see, there are a few nics and scratches. Overall, the coating remains in good condition and is still providing really good braking performance. In fact, Winston just came back from a trip to the mountains of Colombia South America where he was doing rides like this! https://www.strava.com/activities/1085264633

PEO coating with 8,000 miles on it in all weather conditions

PEO coating on a front wheel with 8,000 miles on it in all weather conditions

PEO coating with 8,000 miles on it in all weather conditions

 

ERD

  • 580mm Altamont & Ceramic Coated Altamont
  • 590mm Altamont Lite & Ceramic Coated Altamont Lite
  • 585mm 28mm Carbon
  • 553mm 44mm Carbon
  • 520mm 60mm Carbon
  • 463mm 90mm Carbon
  • 534mm Jocassee
  • 570mm 36mm Road Disc & Pinnacle
  • 595mm Ridgeline 29er
  • 555mm Rideline 27.5
  • 595mm Kanuga 29er
  • 555mm Kanuga 27.5
  • 584mm Rouleur *round spoke

Spoke Offset

  • 2.8mm Jocassee
  • 2.8mm Pinnacle

Spoke Tension

  • Rear Drive Side 120 - 125 kgf
  • Front Rim Brake both sides 110 kgf
  • Front Disc Brake rotor side 110 kgf

All thing disc brake! Yes… All things! There is a lot of information here, but organized into different sections. If you have a question about anything with disc brakes it’s probably answered below.

 CenterlockThe disc brake hubs that we build on are centerlock. There are two methods for attaching the rotor to the hub, traditional six bolt and the newer centerlock standard. Six bolt relies on tightening six individual T25 torx bolts to secure the rotor to the hub shell. Changing a rotor require removing all six of these bolts and then securing all six bolts again. It can be a time-consuming process.With the centerlock standard the rotor fits over top of a spline and then secured via a lock ring (similar to how a cassette mounts on a freehub body). To change a rotor, you simply loosen the lock ring, slide the rotor off, and then tighten the lock ring for the new rotor.The important thing with this is that whether your hub has six bolt or centerlock rotors, you can run them on your disc brake equipped bike. The spacing of where the brake mounts sit is universal, so if you have one wheel with a six-bolt rotor and one wheel with a centerlock rotor they are interchangeable. Note that you will need to know what size rotor your bike is running to ensure you have that size rotor on your wheels. Example, if your disc brake calipers are set for 160mm, then you need to run 160mm rotors on your wheels.If you have six bolt rotors that you currently using and would like to use them with your centerlock splined wheels you can do that with a centerlock to six bolt adapters. This adapter will fit over the centerlock splines and has tabs to mount the six-bolt rotor. You can use your existing six bolt rotors.If you have centerlock rotors already, you can only use them on centerlock splined wheels. Due to space requirements and needs to conform to spacing standards there is no way to run a centerlock rotor on a six-bolt disc brake hub. Attaching the centerlock rotorsWith the centerlock rotors they simply secure to the hub by tightening a lock ring (part SM-RT96). With most centerlock rotors the lock ring will be included with the rotor. It’s often referred to as the internal lockring as the splines to tighten the lockring are on the inside and you use a standard Shimano cassette tool to tighten the lock ring. The exception to this is if you order a Sram centerlock rotor. These do not come with the lockrings so you would have to find the lockrings separately.The traditional internal lock ring that comes with the rotors will work for the axles that have an outside diameter of 19mm. This includes all rear axles (quick release, 135mm thru axle, 142mm thru axle, and 148mm boost thru axle). For the front hub, this internal lock ring can be used for quick release and 12mm thru axles. Both of those use a 19mm outside diameter on the axle.     For 15mm axles (both 15mmX100mm and the 15mmX110mm for boost hubs) the outside diameter of the axle is 21mm. With this larger outside diameter, there is not room for the cassettetool to fit inside the lock ring and clear the axle diameter. With this you need an external lock ring (part SM-HB20). The locking part of this is on the outside of the lock ring. You need a specific tool to tighten this lock ring (it’s the same tool used to tighten the external cups on a threaded Shimano bottom bracket).     End capsThe Quest disc brake hubs feature easy to install swappable end caps to accommodate the different axle sizes that your bike may have. Each end cap is conveniently laser etched with the spec of the axle size and where on the hub the end cap belongs (rotor side or non-rotor side). To convert from one axle standard to a different one, you simply need to slide the end cap off the axle and install the new end cap on the axle. This can all be performed by hand. There are no tools required!Freehub bodyThe Quest disc brake hubs can also very easily swap between Shimano and Sram freehub body, Sram XD driver, and a Campy freehub body. The Shimano and Sram freehub body, and the Campy freehub body uses a traditional multi-piece cassette where each cog is placed on the freehub body and a lockring is tightened to hold the cassette in place. Shimano and Sram cassettes fit on the same freehub body and are interchangeable. If you have a Campy cassette then you need a Campy freehub body.The Sram XD driver uses a different type of cassette. This is a one-piece type of cassette that threads on like an older style threaded freehub. If you are running a Sram XD style cassette then you must use the XD driver. That cassette will not fit on a Shimano or Sram style freehub body.Swapping the freehub body options between Shimano/Sram, Sram XD Driver, and Campy is super easy, requires no tools, and requires no redishing of the wheel afterwards.Boost Spacing HubsThe new standard for mountain bikes uses a wider “boost” spacing for the front and rear hubs. The axle standard for boost is 110mm X 15mm thru axle for the front and 148mm X 12mm thru axle for the rear. The hubs will come with the correct end caps installed that is the ONLY end cap that will work with the boost spacing hubs. You can still swap the freehub body between Shimano and Sram freehub body, and Sram XD driver. There are no Campy groups that are designed for bikes that would have boost spacing.Thru Axles and SkewersIf your bike uses thru axles, the axles that thread into your frame and fork will be specific to your frame and fork. There are a few different width, threading, and size options to where we could not supply the axle without knowing exactly which bike you had. With the thru axle style axle, the axle always stays with the bike, whereas the traditional skewer style bikes, the skewers were a universal size and most people would keep a set of skewers with each set of wheels.
  • If your bike is thru axle and you order the wheels with the thru axle end caps, a skewer WILL NOT be provided with the wheels as it’s not needed.
  • If your bike uses a quick release skewer to secure the wheels and you order the wheels with the quick release end caps we WILL include the quick release skewers with the wheels.
  • If you are ordering just the quick release end caps separately, the skewers WILL NOT come with the caps. You will have to order the quick release skewers separately here:
 Swapping disc brake hubs between multiple bikesIf the two bikes you are swapping the wheels between have the same axle size and rotor size, it’s a simple removal of the wheel and installing it on the other bike. If both bikes have thru axle, you WILL NOT move the axle with the wheels. The axle will stay with the frame and fork, not the wheels.If the bikes have different sized rotors or different axle standards then the hubs will need to swap rotors and/or end caps to fit into the new bike. Fortunately, with the Quest hubs, this is super easy to do with minimal mechanical knowledge and in almost no time required. 
The hubs we have designed are designed to be easy to work on, and be relatively maintenance. That being said, it's the only part of the wheel that has both moving and non-moving parts. This is where you want to ensure that you check over the hubs at regular intervals to keep everything running smoothly.The easiest thing to check is the bearings. If you spin the wheel in your hand, you can feel if the bearings still feel nice and smooth or if they have gotten gritty over time. Bearings are a part where they are good until they are not. Once they feel like they have gone bad you will want to replace them. Riding on bad bearings for a prolonged period of time could lead to the bearing suffering a failure and leaving you stranded (similar to if you drive your car on a bad wheel bearing). Pressing in new bearings is very easy and usually relatively inexpensive.Keeping the pawls and driver ring lubed is important. This is the only spot on your bike where you have metal parts moving against metal parts (not counting bearings). The hubs will come pre-greased, but over time this grease can wash out of the hubs. I usually add grease to my pawls about twice per year to ensure everything remains properly lubed and running smooth. We sell the NixFrixshun Speed Coat grease that was specially designed to work on the insides of hubs. One tube is pretty much a lifetime supply and will keep your hubs running smooth.On any of our hubs sold after 2013 there is a pre-load adjustment to dial in tension on the axle. If you go to the page for our Prime hubs you will see a video on how to adjust the pre-load. Checking this every couple of months takes about 10 to 20 seconds, but ensures that your hubs are running smoothly with no play and no side load on the bearings.
Hub noise is something that intrigues a lot of people. Why are some hubs super loud, and others almost silent?The answer is because when the pawls click over the teeth inside the hub, they make a noise. Depending on how many pawls, how many teeth, and how powerful the springing mechanism is to push the pawl outward, will dictate how loud the hubs are when you are coasting.Our hubs use leaf springs to push each pawl outward. When you are pedaling, each pawl will push against the driver ring and move the wheel forward. When you are coasting, the pawls will click up and down over top of the ramped teeth in the driver ring. Because we are using the leaf springs, we ensure very solid engagement that will not skip or jump when you stomp on the pedals.This image shows the leaf spring and pawls on a freehub body     The noise level with this system can actually be adjusted slightly. By adding grease to the pawls and driver ring, you will dampen the sound a little. With this you can choose if you want your hub to be attention getting loud, or a stealthy clicking style.  We encourage people to use the NixFrixShun SpeedCoat when servicing their driver ring and pawls.