Here is how we recommend you setup our tubeless conversion kit, available at BoydCycling.com.

Tips & Tricks for Boyd Cycling Tubeless Ready Wheels

There are a few steps you need to follow to successfully install and run a tubeless system. Want us to do it for you? All gravel and mountain bike wheelsets are setup tubeless by default (tubeless rim tape and valvestems). Road wheels (carbon 28,36,44,60,90 and alloy Altamont / Altamont Lite) can be converted for tubeless tires.

Pros of running tubeless tires:

  • More puncture resistant tire system
  • Ability to run lower PSI
  • Tire that holds pressure longer (less trips to the pump)
  • You get to tell all your friends you are running tubeless (if you have ever ridden with anybody who is riding tubeless you already know this)

Cons of running tubeless tires:

  • Tires are harder to mount (but watch our Youtube channel for tips)
  • You may need an air compressor to get initial inflation. Remove the valvestem before attempting to seat the bead on the rim.
  • Changing a flat on the side of the road can be difficult.

Despite the cons, people like the tubeless set up because of the better protection against flat tires. You will be running sealant inside the tire, and with only having a tire to seal (vs. both a tube and tire), small punctures seal themselves. Larger punctures may be repaired with a small tire plug kit (google side of bacon from genuine innovations). Note that any major cuts, or snake bite flats from bottoming out can still lead to flat tires, even when running tubeless. Yet, for the majority of times where a pinhole type of puncture occurs, tubeless will not flat in those situations.

We spent years in coming up with the new rim profiles to ensure a perfect tubeless setup.
Things like angle of the rim bed, center channels, rim diameters, even spoke hole width were considered. With this, we are confident that we have the best possible solution for running a tubeless setup (right down to the nut used to tighten the valve). Below is a video that shows the Boyd Cycling tubeless advantage and why Boyd is the real first name of tubeless.

Our tire mounting trick that makes it easier to mount tires by hand.

Here is what you need to run a tubeless tire system

Tubeless specific tire - The tire MUST say tubeless specific on it. Tubeless specific tires have a reinforced bead on them, if you try to run a non-tubeless specific tire as a tubeless set up it will not seat right and will blow off the rim.

Tubeless valve (ideally with removable valve core) - In order to create an air tight seal, you need a valve that securely clamps in place. We have tubeless valves designed for every depth of rim we offer. Each tubeless valve will come with removable valve cores, and our patent pending tubeless wing nut, a unique solution to being able to tighten and loosen the nut on your tubeless valves.

Tubeless rim tape - We give you the option of adding a tubeless set up on your wheels. When you do, you will have two layers of our blue tubeless tape installed on the rim. If you are looking to convert the 2016 model rims (with the tubeless rim bed) and need tubeless tape, you need 25mm wide tape for the rim bed.

Sealant - The sealant is what helps make the tubeless system more puncture proof. After you have the tire and valve installed, but before inflating the tire, you will want to add the sealant inside the tire. We've developed our Tickled Pink tire sealant that smells like bubblegum, and is bright pink - so that you can easily spot the tire pressure issue.

Tire levers - Tubeless tires fit tighter on the rims and can be a lot harder to install. If you are not comfortable using a tire lever then tubeless may not be the best option (especially if you flat while out on a ride). The alloy wheels will be easier to mount a tire on compared to the carbons. With the carbon clinchers, the bead seat is already fairly tight, so installing a tubeless tire on them will be difficult. Watch our youtube video for a trick that makes it easier to mount these tires. Use the levers to remove the tire.

Air compressor - In order to get initial pressure into the tire and get it to seat in the rim, a pump usually will not supply air fast enough for this. First remove the valve cores of the valvestems with a valve core remover tool. An air compressor can save you a lot of unnecessary pumping (cyclists are notorious for not having arm strength). Several floor pumps also now include air pressure chambers, to store up high psi to mimic the effects of using a compressor.

Road Tire Sizes and PressuresNothing has changed more on the bike over the past few years than tire sizes and pressures. It used to be everybody was riding around on 21mm tires at 120PSI, unless they were doing time trials. Then they would run 19mm tires at 170PSI. We just thought that was the fastest set up back in the day. A lot of this had to do with the road buzz you would get at smaller tire pressures and higher PSI. That road buzz made it feel like we were going faster.However, things started evolving and with the increase in tire sizes came studies on what was best for tire pressure. The general rule of thumb is that the larger the tire, the less air pressure you want to run. As tire sizes increase, the rolling resistance actually decreases due to the tires taking a wider, but short contact patch with the asphalt. Handling is also improved with this wider contact patch, and because you have more air volume at a lower PSI the vibration dampening on the bike is greatly improved. This vibration dampening is what makes people feel that the larger tires are rolling slower, but is not actually the case.The one downside of moving to a larger tire is the crosswind stability decreases. So, with deeper road rims on windy days keeping with a 23mm or 25mm tire will help considerably with both better aerodynamics and better handling in the crosswinds.Below is a great chart from Michelin (one of the better ones I have seen), that gives good advise about tire pressure given a rider's weight and the tire size they are running. You should always try a few different tire pressures to see which one works best for you. Some riders like riding a bit higher pressure, and others like riding lower pressure. Finding out what works best for you will optimize the quality of your ride.MTB/CX/Gravel Tire Sizes and PressuresWith the road tires, it's a lot easier to suggest a certain tire size and pressure for a rider, because we know the surface they will be riding on. . .pavement. Although there is rough pavement, smooth, and differences in handling between dry and wet conditions, for the most part the surface is very consistent.When you start going off road, you introduce a whole new aspect into tire selection. You have to deal with changing surface conditions. There is different treads on the tires to go along with sizes. Riders also have to balance a combination of speed, handling, and durability. There are books written to which cyclocross tires work best given different conditions.Equipment selection in off road events is a strategy almost as important as proper training. With this, it's impossible to suggest exactly what size, type of tire, and pressures you should be running. It could change from one ride to the next based on the type of riding you are doing.The best course of action for this is to learn what tread, sizes, and pressures work best for you. This will give you a huge advantage in disciplines where tire selection really matters!