In part of making a complete wheel system, we wanted to have the highest quality hubs come standard on the wheels. We have a CNC factory produce the hubs for us to our specification to ensure you will have the stiffest, most stable, and best engaging hubs on the market.
Hubs can be one of the best ways to increase the stiffness of the wheels.
If you think of a wheel as a triangle instead of a circle, the spokes have a base at the hub and come to a point at the rim. By increasing the base of this triangle you are making for a sturdier object, which translates directly to a stiffer wheel. Our hubs have some of the widest flange spacing on the market, which combined with the strength of the rims help to make for incredibly well responding and stiff wheels.
Hub stability is something that is often times overlooked.
However, stability can be felt immediately when standing (such as when sprinting or climbing). To accomplish higher stability the bearings were also moved out as far as possible on the axle. Many hubs have a long end cap on the non-drive side with the bearing quite far from the edge of the hub. By supporting the non-drive side bearing and moving it out to the edge of the axle, the wheels stability is greatly increased.
Pawls and Engagement Teeth:
Four oversize pawls drive the hub forward. Each pawl is supported by a leaf spring underneath for guaranteed solid engagement. There is no chance of ever having the hub slip and not engage.
The pawls engage against 32 teeth on the ratchet ring. This provides quick engagement and a wheel that responds faster. With this combination of larger pawls that engage quickly, our hubs are designed for anything you can throw at them. Jump out of a final corner in a crit and know your hubs will propel you towards that finish line!
Our rear hub features a pre-load system to tighten the hub together. A pre-load allows you to dial in the tension on the bearings, remove all play, and prevent side loading the bearing. This leads to a hub that rolls very well and has increased bearing life.
Once the pre-load is adjusted and the tension is dialed, it gets locked in place using a 2.5mm allen key. Then the end cap locks into place against the pre-load, unlike traditional hubs where the end cap locks into place against a bearing.
See the instructions for adjusting the pre-load here:
If your hub has a 22mm cone wrench slot on the non drive side (2013 model hub), the instructions for adjusting the pre-load can be found here:
2013 model year hub pre-load adjustment
If your hub has the pre-load with a 2.5mm allen key on the pre-load (like the above picture), the instructions for adjusting the pre-load can be found here:
2015 model year hub pre-load adjustment
Our bearings are a high quality steel bearing made by Enduro.
We are using Abec 5 angular contact sealed cartridge bearings in the hubs. A sealed cartridge bearing helps protect the ball bearings and grease inside the bearing. When the bearing gets contaminated with water, degreaser, etc the greade can wash away leaving a rough and gritty spinning bearing. By having a sealed bearing system, you have a maintenance free system that lasts in all weather conditions. It also means you don't have to constantly be taking apart the hub to repack the bearings with new grease.
The ABEC rating is an overall rating of the complete cartridge. The Abec rating is a scoree assigned to the overall quality of the cartridge, including the balls and race. The testing is actually a noise test; bearings are spun to very high rpms to look for precision and noise levels inside the bearing. The Abec rating of the system is given.
Typical hub bearings are ABEC 3 rated cartridges. While the ABEC 5 rating of the Enduro bearing is only greater by two digits, this difference represents a much higher quality bearing (the higher the ABEC rating, the greater the quality). The ball “grade” is a reflection of how perfectly round the individual ball bearings are. With ball grade, the LOWER the number, the more perfectly round the ball is. The Grade 5 balls in the Enduro cartridges is extremely high quality when compared to the industry standard of Grade 25 ball bearings.
By using this system you have a hub that spins incredibly well, especially with load on the bearings, and that will have great durability and longevity.
This is all in hopes of getting a tenth of a watt at most extra out of using them. The claims of the people pushing ceramic bearings are a bit over the top. In addition, with the differences in material strength between the ball bearings and the race, the impact resistance of ceramic bearings is not as high as a high quality steel bearing. So, for those riders wanting to do any dirt road riding or cross racing, ceramic bearings will not hold up to that riding.
This is why we only use high quality steel bearings. . .ones that spin very well and that will last for years to come.
Because the hub features a pre-load system, we use angular contact bearings.
Traditional ball bearings have the race on the top and bottom of the ball bearings for support (this is called a radial ball bearing). When you can dial in the tension with a pre-load, you can have a system where the race surrounds the ball bearing at an angle. In standard radial bearings, only 3 or 4 balls make contact during the load, at any given time. In Angular Contact (A/C) bearings, ALL balls are engaged and spread the force over a larger surface area, to decrease friction, and minimize wear. Wheel play can be adjusted out of the hub, to giving a more stable wheel, while still spinning freely.